Tourmaline is one of the most colourful gemstones, spanning almost the entire spectrum from rose red, pink, emerald green and indigo to watermelon tourmaline, in which a single gemstone displays two colours at once. Among them, Paraiba tourmaline, with its neon blue-green glow, is known as “The King of Tourmaline”.
Tourmaline is gem-quality elbaite. The name elbaite derives from its distinctive physical properties: when heated or compressed, the two ends of a crystal develop electric charges (pyroelectricity and piezoelectricity), and it can even attract small particles of dust. Tourmaline has a complex composition, and different trace elements produce different colours: manganese creates red and pink, iron creates blue and green, while copper produces Paraiba tourmaline’s distinctive neon blue-green glow.
Tourmaline is one of the October birthstones (alongside opal) and is also the 8th wedding anniversary gemstone. Tourmaline is commonly regarded as a gemstone that brings popularity and good luck; this is a cultural association, not a scientifically proven effect.
Hard enough for everyday wear; however, some rubellites contain more inclusions, so rings should ideally have more protective settings.
A single gemstone may also display two or more colours at once; bi-colour and watermelon tourmaline embody tourmaline’s unique appeal.
Viewed from different angles, the colour depth or tone may vary, and the cutting direction directly affects the colour appearance of the finished piece.
An overview of the colours, colouring elements, features and common treatments of common commercial varieties.
| Commercial Name | Colour Appearance | Primary Colouring Elements | Features | Common Treatments | Styles & References |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paraiba Tourmaline Paraiba | Neon blue, blue-green to green | Copper (Cu), manganese (Mn) | Intense neon-like brilliance, extremely limited supply | Commonly heated | Ready-to-Wear Styles |
| Rubellite Tourmaline Rubellite | Red, purplish red to rose red | Manganese (Mn) | Retains a rich red colour in both daylight and artificial light | May be irradiated or heated | Ready-to-Wear Styles |
| Pink Tourmaline Pink | Pale pink to vivid pink | Manganese (Mn) | Soft tones, suitable for everyday wear | May be irradiated or heated | Ready-to-Wear Styles |
| Indicolite Tourmaline Indicolite | Greenish blue, aqua to deep blue | Iron (Fe) | The purer and brighter the blue, the higher the value | Commonly heated | Related Styles |
| Green Tourmaline Verdelite | Yellow-green, emerald green to deep green | Iron (Fe); chrome green tourmaline contains chromium (Cr) / vanadium (V) | More abundant, with a wide range of colour tones | Commonly heated | Ready-to-Wear Styles |
| Bi-colour Tourmaline Bi-colour | Two or more colours in a single gemstone | Composition changes during crystal growth | Common pink-and-green gradation or boundary | Generally lightly treated | Ready-to-Wear Styles |
| Watermelon Tourmaline Watermelon | Pink centre, green outer ring | Layered crystal growth | Cross-section resembles a watermelon slice | Generally lightly treated | View Styles |
Note: The treatment column describes common market practices; not every gemstone is treated. The condition of each gemstone is subject to its laboratory certificate.
Because Paraiba tourmaline contains copper and manganese, it displays a lagoon-like neon blue-green glow that stands out among blue tourmalines. Due to its extremely limited supply, high-quality Paraiba can command prices comparable to top-quality rubies, making it highly sought after by coloured gemstone collectors.
From rich red rubellite to distinctive watermelon tourmaline, discover six popular varieties of tourmaline.
Also known as rubellite tourmaline, its colours range from purplish red to ruby-like deep red. True rubellite retains the same rich red under daylight and artificial light; the more vivid the colour, the more valuable it is.
Colours range from pale pink to vivid hot pink, gentle yet bright, and easy to pair with everyday looks, making it a popular choice for gifts and personal wear.
A collective term for all blue tourmalines, including greenish blue, aqua blue, and deep blue. The purer and brighter the blue, the higher the value, making it one of the more precious varieties in the tourmaline family.
Colours range from fresh mint green to deep forest green, offering a wide selection at relatively accessible prices; chrome or vanadium-bearing chrome tourmaline has a richer, more vivid green.
Changes in composition during crystal growth cause two or more colours to appear in the same gemstone. Pink and green gradients or contrasting colours are common, making each stone unique.
With pink at the centre and vivid green around the edge, its cross-section resembles a slice of watermelon, hence the name. Preserving its natural pattern in slice form makes this one of the styles that best showcases tourmaline’s individuality.
From colour and clarity to cut and certificates, understand the four key points for selecting natural tourmaline.
Colour is the primary factor determining value. Vivid, highly saturated colour that is not overly dark is preferred; rubellite should be viewed under different light sources to confirm colour stability, while Paraiba is prized for a strong neon effect.
Green and blue tourmalines are generally cleaner, and the market expects them to be eye-clean; rubellite and watermelon tourmalines naturally contain more inclusions, which are generally acceptable as long as they do not affect brilliance or durability.
Tourmaline has pronounced pleochroism, and its colour is usually deeper when viewed along the crystal’s long axis. Cutters determine the table position according to the crystal’s orientation; good cutting produces even, bright colour and avoids one end appearing too dark.
Heating and irradiation are common colour-enhancement methods in the tourmaline market. For Paraiba and large-carat tourmalines, a trusted laboratory certificate is recommended to confirm whether the stone is natural, whether it contains copper (Paraiba), and its treatment status.
As every natural gemstone is unique, the actual price depends on the individual stone. Feel free to contact a consultant to select a stone within your budget.
From everyday rings to collector-grade Paraiba loose stones, discover pieces featuring different varieties of tourmaline.
Rectangular pink tourmaline with diamonds, simple and timeless, suitable for everyday wear.
View Style →
Triangular watermelon tourmaline with a diamond halo, showing distinct red and green layers.
View Style →
Deep blue-green step-cut loose stone, suitable for custom rings or pendants.
View Loose Stones →
Wine-red oval tourmaline with a floral diamond halo, elegant and luxurious.
View Style →
Step-cut facets highlight the bi-colour gradient, paired with a double halo of diamonds.
View Style →
Collector-grade untreated Paraiba loose stones, available for custom setting.
View Loose Stones →From gemstone knowledge to style stories, expand your understanding of tourmaline.
Where does the neon blue-green glow come from? The origins and value of Paraíba.
Discover Gemstones
The formation of two colors in a single gemstone and the allure of bi-colour tourmaline.
Discover Gemstones
Retaining the triangular outline of the rough stone, this design showcases the natural layers of watermelon tourmaline.
Read the style story
A matching earring and necklace set featuring complementary red and green hues.
Read the style storyHow bezel settings protect gemstones while showcasing the purest brilliance of natural gemstones.
Read the article →From coloring elements to contemporary jewelry, discover the allure of gemstones in crimson hues.
Read the article →The significance of wine red in European history and jewelry design, and its representative gemstones.
Read the article →The most common gemological questions encountered when selecting tourmaline.
Tourmaline is gem-quality elbaite, a group of borosilicate minerals with complex compositions belonging to the trigonal crystal system. When heated or compressed, its crystals develop electrical charges at both ends, demonstrating pyroelectricity and piezoelectricity; hence the name tourmaline. Most tourmaline used in jewelry is elbaite.
Tourmaline has a Mohs hardness of 7–7.5 and is quite durable for everyday wear, making it suitable for rings, earrings, and pendants. However, varieties such as rubellite often contain more natural inclusions, so heavy impacts should be avoided. For rings, protective settings such as bezel settings may be preferable.
Paraíba is neon blue-green due to its copper and manganese content. It is extremely scarce, and high-quality stones can rival top rubies in price. It was first discovered in Brazil’s Paraíba State in 1987, and has since also been found in Nigeria and Mozambique. International laboratories generally use copper and manganese content as the basis for identifying Paraíba, while origin is reported separately; material from Brazil is typically valued more highly in the market.
Ruby is corundum, with a Mohs hardness of 9; rubellite is tourmaline, with a hardness of 7–7.5, more pronounced pleochroism, and more commonly occurring natural inclusions. Their appearance can be similar, but the most reliable way to distinguish them is through testing by a gemological laboratory or professional.
Heating and irradiation are common color-enhancement treatments for tourmaline on the market, and some gemstones may also have undergone fracture filling. Everyday jewelry may not require an independent certificate, but Paraíba and large-carat tourmaline are recommended to come with a certificate from a reputable laboratory confirming whether they are natural, whether they contain copper, and their treatment status.
The safest method is to clean it with warm soapy water and a soft-bristled brush, then rinse with clean water and pat dry. Tourmaline should not be cleaned with ultrasonic or steam cleaners, and exposure to high temperatures and sudden temperature changes should be avoided. When heated, it easily attracts dust, so it should be stored separately from other jewelry in daily use. For details, please see the Jewelry Care Guide.
The WILLS JEWELLERY Central private showroom operates by appointment only. You can book online or WhatsApp +852 3571 9629 with the tourmaline varieties, color ranges, and budget you are interested in. A consultant will arrange the gemstones in advance for comparison under natural and standard lighting, and provide bespoke design recommendations.
The information on this page about tourmaline’s mineral characteristics, hardness, birthstones, and anniversary gemstones is based on the following international gemological organizations and compiled by the WILLS JEWELLERY gemstone consultant team based on their practical gemstone selection experience.
Tourmaline’s pleochroism and color variations are difficult to fully appreciate from screen photos alone. You are welcome to book a visit to our Central private showroom, where a consultant can arrange comparisons of gemstones in different color ranges and bespoke design services. You can also visit our Sheung Wan and Tsim Sha Tsui stores to try on pieces at your leisure.
Receive regular updates on natural colored gemstone knowledge, buying guides, stories of rare gemstones, and the latest WILLS collection pieces.
Your cart is currently empty.
Start Shopping
